So, given lemons, I am going to squeeze this event to serve you people lemonade. (instead of becoming a sour puss)

Step one: The best defense against a hair mishap is a good offense. Audio visuals are the best way to say, “I would like my bangs to look like this,” or “I love the color of her hair.” Both you and your stylist get a clear picture of what you’re looking for.

Step two: If you are still in the chair and you are watching Edwina Scissorhands make your hair fly, feel empowered to say “STOP! I think we may have miscommunicated (always use kind, soft words towards the one holding something sharp by your jugular).  I was hoping for a trim and it seems like more than usual coming off of my ends. Is it to late to ask for less of a trim?”

Step three: The stylist has finished and your not happy. You can see that it is more than just the way she styled it, it’s the cut. If it’s your first time visiting this stylist and the hair cut has left you feeling a loss of confidence in her abilities, go to the receptionist and ask for the manager or owner. Ask her if you could get a new stylist to reshape your hair immediately. Don’t worry about offending the stylist. If she is worth her salt, she will want for you to leave happy. If she isn’t up to snuff, than her salon is aware of her inefficient ways. If they give you a new stylist be clear on what makes you unhappy and what you’d like her to change.

Step four: You left the salon. The stylist did a great job styling and you have no idea what lies beneath. The next morning you wake up to wash and restyle your hair only to find it’s not what you wanted. Call the salon as soon as possible. Tell them you need to see your stylist today ( or as soon as possible) to correct the damage. The longer you wait the less likely the salon is to work with you.

Step five: Grow baby. Take your multi-vitamin to encourage hair growth and relax. Stress makes your hair fall out.

Now, even when the cut is corrected, you are still most likely left with a look you didn’t bargain for. Use this tragedy to try on a new look for a while. Use different styling tools on your new hair shape. I found that before MY hair-wacking, my naturally wavy hair was best styled with a diffuser, now, the curl has turned to frizz and I need a large barreled curling iron to make it behave. And the new style has garnered me lot’s of compliments.

So, next time you see me and it looks like I lean in to hear you, you’ll know thats just my haircut.

Who or what has influenced your style?

A few of you were influenced by movie star glamour. Whether it was the statuesque beauty of Nicole Kidman or the saucy style of the pin-up girl, you were inspired by a visual que that sparked a feeling, or an emotion that made you want to look the part.  Some of you were faithful to certain designers due to fit and continuity of style. Smart designers have made their name from centering around a certain lifestyle. Who doesn’t want to live on Ralph Lauren’s ranch or walk a little taller sex-and-the-city style in their Jimmy Choo’s. I need only mention Kate Spade and we all feel a little more put together. Speaking of put together, some of you said your sense of style came from a lack of style. A mantra of “balletclasswhatsfordinnermarlymissedthebusdogneedsitsteethcleaned” run thru your head making it impossible to hear the whispered nuance of trend and whim. Those girls feel lucky to be clean and upright. Hats off to you ladies. You will get your groove back. (just as soon as you can pass off their bed time routine to their future college roommate)

SO…. What does this have to do with hair? To most of us, our hairstyles follow closely to what’s on our back. A woman who loves the look of Betty Page will lean toward a dramatic style-influenced look. Those of you who are turned on by Ralph Lauren tend to have a casual but elegant hairstyle. And, I don’t even need to mention the wash and go look of the “what do you mean you can’t find your lizard” group.

Finding a new style or changing your hairstyle doesn’t need to be a research project. Looking thru countless hair styling magazines is boggling to the mind, all of those crazy over-styled looks to weed thru. Next time your ready, look to what inspires you. If your not sure, ask yourself “What makes you feel excited? What catches your attention? Who do you admire?” Anything at all can serve as inspiration. The type of art you like could be telling. A modern art girl might like an asymmetrical look or a crisper edged bob. A Renaissance lover will gravitate toward longer softer looks. Look at your car choice (the one you dream of not the mini van that is in your garage). A sleek sporty high maintenance two-seater is screaming to have a sexy trophy wife do. A black BMW may want power hair that is sophisticated and no nonsense.

So if your searching for a new look; thinking of updating your style, look down. What’s on your back. (hopefully for the busy mom group it’s not a few wet Cheerios) and use that to inspire you.

I’d love for you to tell me how you have chosen to wear what you wear. I want to hear from all of you.

My personal style comes from a couple of looks I admire. I love the look of Katherine Hepburn. She wore the “pants as masculine/feminine” style with grace and casual effort. When I wear trouser pants I feel like I can take on the world. (psssst I’m wearing them now LOOK OUT WORLD). But, I also love the “ Housewives of Orange County” too-much-cleavage, big hair, look. I love to look a little sexy.  So if Katherine Hepburn  had a floozy sister, maybe Kitty Hepburn, that’s my look.

How about you? When you select clothing, do you see the vision? The “this will make me look like………(fill in the blank)” or do you see “Sale Rack” style, it fits and is $9.99 it must be my look. Or perhaps you have your own way of choosing what you wear. Let me know. I’ll be eager to hear. Let me know if it’s ok to share your thoughts.

I am sure your wondering “what does this have to do with hair, Nutjob? Aren’t you a hairstylist?”  I will let you know in my next blog (even though you called me a Nutjob).

Just like everywhere the need to cut back and tighten the purse strings has hit our hair. Were all looking for ways to make our dollar stretch a bit farther. And the fall color trend seems to be spurred by our need to save money . The new fall colors are rich and extravagant looking but tend to stay closer to the color family God gave you.

So to do the math for you recessionistas less contrast = less maintenance = more in your wallet!!!!

Blondes are going buttery warm with hand painted pieces or cool suede chunks a tone lighter OR darker than what you have naturally. No longer are we seeing Playmate blonde. Think less L.A. blonde more Nantucket blonde.

Brunettes are getting dimensions added with beautiful cinnamon, grape or even stirling. The color is added artfully with a paintbrush without aluminum foil. It’s luxurious and shiny. Think Katie Holmes not Kardashian (any of ‘em).

The placement of the color has changed too. Instead of larger chunky blonds in the front, the texture is added with multi shaded color from the same family placed as though its grown out a bit. Take a look at Jennifer Anitston and you’ll know what I mean.

SO…… what do you tell your stylist? Tell her you’d like some hand painted pieces that will add illusion volume and texture. Tell her that you want to stay in your color family so you can reduce your maintenance. Or…..just tell her to call  me.

Keep it healthy with regular trims

I get the question all the time. How often should I trim my hair. The answer varies as widely as the hairstyles.

If you have very long hair, the reason to trim your hair would be to keep the ends crisp and healthy. When hair gets to a certain length, it begins to slow the growing down, and eventually, stops growing (unless your this woman). What is that certain length? It is different for each person. If regular conditioning is a habit, and if the ends aren’t subjected to too much heat,trimming should happen 2 times a year.

Medium length hair (just below to just above the shoulders) should be trimmed every 8 to 10 weeks to maintain the length and keep the ends fresh and crisp. UNLESS,  there is a specific style cut into the hair that can not manage with an extra inch of length, such as an inverted bob or heavy bangs. Then I recommend a light trim every 6 weeks

Short hair needs to be maintained the most. Most short styles are shaped by the cut and an extra inch would destroy them. I recommend every 4 weeks unless your hair grows slowly, then every 5 weeks.

In short (pun intended) trimming is to keep the shape and style and to help the condition of your hair.

Easy to do Homecoming or fall wedding hair

There are loads of fall events that require us to groom our wild summer hair and look sophisticated and beautiful. Most people have no trouble finding just the right dress and jewelry, it’s the hair that makes people start to squirm.

Looking like a million bucks doesn’t have to cost a million. Learning one simple go-to never-fail style can save you time and money. Try this one. It looks great on all face shapes, with all hair textures and with all lengths longer then shoulder length.

Start with hair that’s clean and dry. You should have put some sort of mousse or gel in while it was wet to help boost the body and volume, and to help the curl hold. Using a 1″ barrel curling iron, spiral curl (Nellie Olson) the whole head. Taking sections to help organize the curls and keep them tidy. Spray each curl before you use the iron and again after. When you get to the bangs, curl the front in horizontal, Marilyn Monroe, curls away from the part.

Now the tricky part. With your hand like a claw/rake, pull it back in a loose pony tail. This part is tricky because the natural inclination is to pull it back to tightly, losing the texture on the sides. And for Pete’s sake, don’t use a brush to pull it back. This will eradicate all of the texture and destroy the curl. Practicing a few times before the event will insure you get the look your trying for. Now keeping your hand in a claw shape, collect the pony tail in your hand accordion style. Pushing your hand against your scalp, begin to pin the edges, securing the curls in a very loose messy way. When you feel like most (70 %) of the curls will stay when you pull your hand away, do just that. Using a hand mirror, take note of the shape. Is it symmetrical? Too high? Too low? Fine tune the size of the bun now. Using a u-shape hair pin, pull the bun into the shape you want. Secure any curls that have come loose with hair pins. Resist the urge to make it too neat.

Now, every now and then, something horrible happens. Its way off center or too big. Try to look at it with an objective eye. Some times these are serendipitous errors. Re-evaluate and see if you may have just created a “custom” style.

Good Luck!!

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Most people’s hair falls in the same direction every day. There is a side that is your automatic go-to part. If your like me, your head may even tilt in that direction naturally ( any chiropractor out there? ). The hair on either side of that part knows what to do, unfortunately it usually lays flat. Changing the part every now and then will perk up the follicle and boost volume.

Sometimes a whole new hair cut and style is too much change, sometimes all you need is a boost. A new bang shape may be enough. Cutting shorter eyelash length bangs can make your hairstyle look hip without a commitment. As they grow out pushing them off to the side will make it look new and fresh without any change at all.

Changing your part will do the same.

A deep side part will add instant sexy to your hair no matter the length. Parting 2 inches above the temple and pulling the heavier half toward your face while sweeping the lighter side behind your ear will give you glamour girl style without much change.

A middle part is trickier, but with the right proportion you can channel Charlie’s Angel’s swing. Blow dry the bangs back, blending them into the style. Make sure the height comes from the crown and your style has body and texture by curling it with a giant iron.

Try changing your part-ner today.

If I had a dime for every time I heard that….. (OK,even if I just had a dime for every time I said it.)

So whats a stylist to do? She puts her implements to work, and so can you. Learning to use your curling iron or flat iron in a way you haven’t before is sometimes enough to make you feel like a new girl. Try different products as well. One you never thought you could use or one you have no idea how to. Go visit your salon and browse the shelves. There are zillions of fun creams, volumizers, and shine enhancers to try. It’s a cheap and fun, commitment free way to give your morning a kick.

Here comes the dangerous part for me. The part where I let you in on some of what I try to pass off as hair styling savant. There are a few tricks that work almost across the board to change someones look. I am going to share with you two, (only two!!!), one today and one tomorrow.

The first is the tousled beach babe do. The Baywatch, flirty, have-you-seen-my-bunny-ears-laying-around-here hair. After you wash and condition your hair, load it up with a good gel, use the size of a quarter to fifty cent piece. My favorite is Hardwear by Redken. Aim it at your roots, working it down the shaft of your hair. Straight, curly, thick or thin, dry your hair upside down and squeeze/scrunch it as it dries. Make sure you get it 100% dry. When you flip it upright you should look either sexy or like a cave woman depending on whether you put lipstick on before the blow dry. Now give your hair an easy brushing, trying not to lose the volume you created at the roots. Feel the back of your head, there should be a bone that protrudes in the center. That is your occipital bone, (use that in conversation today and watch the look of awe on your pals face) section from just above that bone leaving everything below it hanging and everything above it in a clip. Comb and then spray whats hanging with a good working hairspray. Spraying before will help the curl hold for hours. Two of my favorite working hairsprays are Hard Head by Bed Head and W8TLESS by RUSK. Pull out your curling iron, preferable a 1″ to 1 & 1/2″ barrel and begin curling big, fat, vertical, Nellie Olson ringlets. Now drop the second section, just below the temples all the way around the head, and then commence curling, same as the first section. The last section is the top of your head. This is where a little focus and skill come in. You’re going to want the height of the hairstyle to be at the crown and not the bangs. It would be easy to go all Whitesnake video girl at this point. The best way to avoid it is to make sure the curls go toward the back of your head. This will direct the hair away from the face and reduce some of the volume in the front. The final part usually makes people cringe. It’s the part where you’ve just started to get used to the idea of Nellie Olson curls on our head, you’re thinking of bonnets in a new fresh way when BAM, I pull out the hair brush and brush out everyone of those curls. I turn them into a big static-y mess. The look of disappointment usually comes across my clients face; the mental loss of a mid-day meadow run is palpable. Then, I save the day by using my favorite product, After Party by Bed Head. It’s part shine enhancer, part miracle worker. I put a dime to quarter size (depending on the thickness and length of your hair) in my palm and emulsify (fancy stylist word for rub it around ) it. Then I aim it on the shaft of the hair and work up, opposite of what we did with the gel. After Party works to re-gather the curls in a sexy piece-y way, they move and bounce AND shine. Flipping your hair upside-down will help insure that you aim for the bulk and away from the scalp. The only downsides to After Party are using too much, or getting it to close to the scalp. Both of these will flatten your curls and make your hair look greasy. Take a look in the mirror and size it up. How does the crown look? Flat? Then pick up a couple of curls at the crown and back comb them lightly at the base (close to the scalp), being careful not to break up the curl too much.

This hairstyle is best worn with a red one piece bathing suit and a whistle but I will leave it up to your discretion.

Tomorrows blog…. Change Your Part-ner

There are a few steps you can take to help insure the nest wont return.

Most children shower or bathe at night. The morning routine is hectic enough without adding a dripping wet kid to the mix. After the evening bath time, try using a spray on de-tangler and a wide tooth comb to remove the knots and smooth down the hair before your child’s head hits the pillow. Speaking of pillow a satin pillowcase will help the hair slide easily and not create friction against the fabric in the morning, that same wide tooth comb and a light spray of water will reactivate the de-tangler and remove even the worst case of bed head.

When kids get to upper elementary, they go thru pre-puberty. There bodies begin to secrete the hormones that will turn them into delightful teen-agers. One of the side effects of these hormones is a scalp that becomes both greasy and flaky at the same time. It will look like a bad case of dandruff that will last between six months and two years. Because it is hormone based, most dandruff shampoos won’t cure it. Frequent shampooing will help, and a mild medicated shampoo that is tea tree oil based can also help their scalp look it’s best.

Getting regular trims and keeping your child’s hair healthy will make the morning routine easier.  Letting your child pick their hairstyle is another key, it may make you nervous but you’ll find they take more responsibility in their grooming. They may choose a look that is far from your own, but by letting them have a say, you help insure ownership in the style. Give them the time and products they need to create their style, and they’ll do it themselves. When they see their stylist for trims have her teach your child tips to making achieving their look easier.

Remember, the school year is a marathon, not a sprint and getting the routine down may take a few weeks if not months. So if you see my son, and he has a bird’s nest on the back of his head, you’ll know were still working toward it.

BUT… silicone has a dirty secret. It is not water soluble. It stays on the hair and builds up. If you’ve noticed that your hair doesn’t behave or lies flat and tired it may be time to remove the excess build up.

There are lots of shampoos on the market for clarifying your hair. They are best used once a week for fine hair or once a month for thick, coarse hair. They strip the hair of what ever has built up on it. The old wives tale was that your hair got used to a certain shampoo and would respond better when you used a new one every once in a while. That myth is probably based on the build up factor.

A little known secret (and a great money saver, recessionistas) is using a mixture of 50% shampoo (any type will do) and 50% apple cider vinegar. Shampoo this watery stuff carefully on your hair (if it gets in your eyes it wont hurt you but you’ll remember it for a while). Leave it on for 5 min and rinse. Clean shiny hair.

“I’ve been in this business for a long time, and I no longer think that anything that I do by way of clarification is ever going to eradicate the mistakes. “
Ann Beattie ( I don’t think she new about apple cider vinegar)